Each Chef Should Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on List of London’s Top Restaurants.
Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.
A Surprise Recognition
The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family totally astonished.
“I am utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
A Character of Modesty
The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
The Signature Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.
It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Outranking the Titans
Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.
The Creed of Heart
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
The Journey of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
An Achievement for the People
This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.